Polish European

Every year from mid-March through to October, Krakow's Main Market Square is enlivened by the presence of outdoor chairs and tables, and brightly coloured sunshades. Given the number of choices, it may take quite a while for the visitor to realise that there is actually considerable variety in what is on offer and what is likely to appeal. Another consideration is time of day and whether you want sunshine or shade.

If your preference is for a generous and delicious breakfast in the sun, on comfortable chairs and surrounded by flowers, you could do worse than visit Europejska on the north west corner of the square. Long a favourite with the more civilised tourist and expats of a certain age, Europejska offers set English, Polish, Italian and Viennese breakfasts of undeniable quality and served with style.

But don't let the charms of sitting outdoors cause you to neglect the interior, which is decorated in the classic Viennese Secession style of the late 19th century. Except, that is, for the bar, which is exactly like what you would find in a typical Victorian English pub - although the red telephone box at one end may be taking the interpretation a little far! The atmosphere is one of genteel cosiness: richly polished woodwork, thick carpets and almost inaudible background music make this just the place for civilised discourse.

Although justly famous for its breakfasts, Europejska is open from morning until midnight and thus offers a full dining menu in addition to lunches, coffee and the inevitable cakes and desserts - their cheesecake reputedly the best in Krakow. Or of course you could even just have a drink. All in all, Europejska is recommended for those who enjoy quiet, calm and comfort.

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Rynek Glowny 35, Old Town, 31-011

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