Eszeweria is in many ways the archetype of the bohemian Kazimierz bar; if you like the style and character of Alchemia, but don't like the fact that every visitor to Kazimierz seems to pass through its doors, then Eszeweria has that elusive 'local' feel. It also has the added bonus of frequent musical and artistic events, which welcome all-comers and all types, and often feature acts from overseas.

The way into the bar is an appropriately gloomy doorway on Jozefa Street, surrounded by posters for recent and upcoming events, which leads one into a dimly lit space with polished brick floors, random wooden chairs and tables and various antiques and candelabras. However, this is no attempt at bohemian squalor - everywhere is clean and there are vases of fresh flowers on every table. Particular mention should be made of the toilet (unfortunately the only one - be prepared to queue), which has been decorated in a charming, if slightly kitsch, style and is invariably spotless.

One of the best things about Eszeweria, though, is its tree-shaded beer garden at the rear - open during the warm season - which can offer welcome respite from the bustle of nearby Plac Nowy, and which, for the time being, is relatively little known and very peaceful. Drinks-wise you have the expected range of beers, vodkas, coffee and hot chocolate.

For the visitor to Krakow, therefore, who wants to get a feel for the 'real' contemporary Kazimierz - dim, smoky and endlessly fascinating interiors, eclectic music, arty clientele and (perhaps most importantly) cheerful friendly bar staff - Eszeweria must be highly recommended.

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ul. Jozefa 9, Jewish-Quarter

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